An Archaeological Study Tour
Ethiopia: Ancient Kingdoms & Legends
November 3 - 20, 2012
18 Days
Led by Dr. Jacke Phillips, University of London, SOAS

Linked to the Ancient Near East by three thousand years of recorded history, Ethiopia, the fabled Land of Punt, has fired the imagination of travelers for hundreds of years. The Kingdom of Axum, traditionally founded by descendants of King Solomon and the legendary Queen of Sheba in Yemen, where much of Ethiopia’s culture originated, was one of the oldest empires of Africa. Incense, ivory and spices were traded via the ancient port of Adulis across Southern Arabia into India, Ceylon and Rome during the Classical and Early Christian periods, establishing its wealth and power as an equal to Rome and Byzantium. Later, as Axum’s power waned, a usurping dynasty was installed at Lalibela, where, in the late 12th or early 13th century, the enormous project of carving out a series of churches from the solid rock was undertaken. Finally, after several wars with Muslim states, which destroyed many of the Christian cultural monuments, descendants of the royal line recovered the kingdom and built the castles and churches of Gondar.

Untainted by colonialization, Ethiopia has preserved a distinct form of Orthodox Christianity. We will see its extraordinary pageantry and unique variations of church architecture, as well as traditional lifestyles in the countryside, where ancient agriculture and pastoral nomadism continue. Our tour will expose us to the enigmatic remains of the region’s great historical periods as we travel through breathtakingly beautiful mountains, the lushly cultivated islands of Lake Tana and the stark desert landscapes pierced by the bright waters of the Blue Nile. This visual feast, together with the diversity of religions, languages and tribal traditions, makes Ethiopia an intriguing and exciting place to visit.

Saturday, November 3: Independent departures from our home cities.

Sunday, November 4: ADDIS ABABA: We will arrive into Addis Ababa Sunday evening and transfer to the luxurious Sheraton Hotel.

Monday, November 5: ADDIS ABABA: After an orientation lecture by Dr. Phillips, we begin our touring at the National Archaeological and Ethnographic Museums. After lunch touring continues to the capital built by Emperor Menelik II, including Entoto Hills and Menelik's palace. Lastly we visit St. George Cathedral and its museum, which displays the best collection of ecclesiastical materials in the country.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Tuesday, November 6: ADDIS ABABA: This full day will take us south of Addis Ababa to the archaeological site at Melka Kunture, where continuing excavations are uncovering exciting evidence of early man. We continue to the rock-hewn church at Adadi Maryam, which probably represents the end of this building phase. Lastly, in the fields outside the small village of Tiya, we will find a wonderful group of menhirs, many carved with symbols and weapons.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch

Wednesday, November 7: MEKELE: This morning we will fly to Mekele, the region’s capital. In this region, known as Tigray, numerous rock-hewn churches were built from about the 10th to the 15th centuries. Most of these churches are hewn out of remote cliff faces in a style evolved from hermits' caves. Some are elaborately decorated while others are little more than a room cut into the rock. Among the churches we will visit is the 10th-century Abraha Atsbeha, renowned for its lovely 17th- and 18th-century murals depicting saints and biblical scenes. The church also contains many valuable artifacts including a prayer cross said to have belonged to Frumentius, the first Bishop of Ethiopia. We will also visit the tiny Dugem Selassie nestled within a newer church. We will venture into the Danakil Desert, where we might see caravans of Afar nomads bring slabs of salt from the Danakil Depression.We will spend the night in the comfortable Gheralta Lodge.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Thursday, November 8: AXUM: Our drive to Axum will be via Adwa, the site of the decisive battle that saved Ethiopia from colonization. We will spend the next four nights at the Yeha Hotel, situated above the town, giving us a marvelous view of the towering stelae scattered below. These great granite stelae, some decorated with doors, windows and beams to resemble multistoried palaces, rank among the largest stones ever used by man in building. They marked the royal cemetery, where the tombs of the kings are still being excavated.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Friday, Saturday, Sunday, November 9, 10 & 11: AXUM: These full days will be spent touring in and around Axum. We will explore the new Archaeological Museum, Caleb’s Palace, as well as the quarry from which the stelae were carved. Here we will find an interesting relief known as the Lion of Gobedra. Lastly, we will visit an area of new excavation and explore tombs and other monuments that abound in the fascinating area around Axum. Our touring will include a day trip to Yeha to visit the ruins of a Sabaean city reminiscent of architecture seen in Yemen. The so-called temple, which is now enclosed in a church, is built of huge sandstone blocks, some of which have been reused in the nearby church and are inscribed with Sabaean inscriptions and a relief of ibexes, a sacred animal of southern Arabia.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily

Monday, November 12: Simien Mountains National Park: Our drive through the Simien Mountains to the Simien Lodge will be memorable for spectacular vistas and breathtaking landscapes. According to Homer, these mountains were so beautiful that they became the playground of the gods. We will arrive at our lodge near the village of Debark (3,000 meters) in the afternoon.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Tuesday, November 13: GONDAR: This morning we explore the area with an opportunity for a light hike. After lunch depart for Gondar arriving in the late afternoon. Ghion Goha Hotel.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Wednesday, November 14: GONDAR: Gondar, formerly Ethiopia’s capital, was the site of great building of castles and churches by the emperors of the 17th and 18th centuries. Today we will visit the imperial precinct, which contains five castles with battlements, observation towers and connecting tunnels all surrounded by high stone walls.The oldest, Castle of Fasilades, built in the mid-17th century reflects Axumite, Portuguese and Indian influences. Our touring will continue at the Church of Debre Birhan Selassie which is beautifully decorated with paintings by the 17th-century artist Haile Meskel.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Thursday, Friday, November 15 & 16: BAHIR DAR: Drive to new Gorgora. There we will board a boat for a full day on Lake Tana, visiting several islands and their distinctive round churches constructed of mud, wood and reeds woven into intricate patterns and decorated with colorful paintings. We disembark in Bahir Dar. Friday morning we will visit the impressive Tisisat Falls and stop near one of Haile Selassie’s palaces, where we can view the source of the Blue Nile. There will be time to relax and enjoy our lovely new lakeside hotel. Kuriftu Resort & Spa.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily

Saturday, Sunday, November 17 & 18: LALIBELA: A wonderful flight over vast desert and mountain landscapes into Lalibela, where we will spend two days exploring the unique churches that recall the ancient Axumite architectural tradition. These buildings of varying size and shape, along with the maze of tunnels, were carved from the living rock by the kings of the Zagwe dynasty from the 13th to the early 14th century. These fabulous churches are decorated with extravagant murals and contain artistic and religious treasures. We will drive into the countryside to visit Ne’akuto Le’ab Church, built into the side of a cliff, and visit the newly opened museum. Mountain View Lodge.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily

Friday, November 19: ADDIS ABABA: A midday flight brings us back to Addis Ababa. This evening we will meet for our farewell dinner at one of the city’s fine restaurants. Sheraton Hotel.
Meals: Breakfast & dinner

Saturday, November 20: The full day will be at leisure to explore the city's galleries and marcato or return to the museum. This evening we will transfer to the airport for our flights home. Our hotel will be available to us for day use as the international flights depart this evening.
Meals: Breakfast