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An Archaeological Study Tour

Mali
Ancient Kingdoms of the Niger

December 27, 2010 - January 10, 2011
Led by Dr. Trevor Marchand


Mali, a place of extraordinary transition between the Arab-Muslim cultures of the Maghreb and the heart of the African continent, constitutes one of the most important historical territories of the Bilad al-Soudan, the “Country of the Blacks.” The Niger River is the lifeline of this landlocked region, and along its banks rose three great empires, endowing West African civilization with riches, scholarship and international fame. The successive kingdoms of Ghana, Mali and the Songhai spanned a period from the 8th to the 16th centuries and at their zenith ruled over a vast territory stretching from the shores of the Atlantic to Kano in the east. Their key to power was control over the trade of southern gold and slaves for North African commodities, most importantly salt, which reputedly traded pound for pound with the precious metal. Timbuktu and Djenné rose as commercial and learning centers, drawing a diverse community of merchant-traders and scholars from the leading Islamic academies of the Middle East. Tales of riches and vast libraries were whispered along the shores of the Mediterranean, luring courageous explorers and missions of conquest throughout the ages. Our tour will introduce us to the history, architecture and cultures of this mythical region, visiting the great medieval trade cities, the legendary griots of Kangaba, the cliff-perched villages of the Dogon and the ancient Mossi Kingdom in the land of the Volta rivers.


Monday, Tuesday, December 27 & 28: BAMAKO: We depart New York on Air France, arriving into Bamako Sunday afternoon. We transfer to the centrally located Grand Hotel.

Wednesday, December 29: BAMAKO: After breakfast, we will meet for an introductory lecture followed by a tour of the city’s French colonial architecture and tree-lined streets thronged with boisterous vendors and shoppers. We will visit the National Museum, which has a small but fine prehistoric collection as well as an interesting collection of modern ritual objects. After lunch, our touring continues at the covered market, where Mali’s wonderful fabrics and handicrafts are temptingly displayed, together with spices and typical foods.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Thursday, December 30: BAMAKO: Driving north, we enter the Mandingues Hills, once the center of the Mali Empire. Our destination is a village with a strong tradition of training traditional musicians. These musicians, known as griots, have been a distinct caste since the days of the Mali Empire. As custom dictates, we must meet with the village elders before joining the villagers for an afternoon of music and dance.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner


Friday, December 31: SEGOU: Depart early for Ségou. After visiting Ségou’s unique weavers, we will have a relaxing lunch at our hotel. This afternoon we will visit the colonial town. This evening we will experience a tradition unique to this area. Just before the June rains, the Bamana and Bozo people of Ségou hold their annual masquerade performed on the village plaza. Large puppets in the shapes of mythical animals (sogo) are made to dance by the puppeteers hidden inside. The guide who accompanies a sogo, as well as the local youth association (ton) and members of the public, dance with the puppets. Music, song and dance convey and reinforce the emotions and create a vibrant atmosphere. Independance Auberge.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner


Saturday, January 1: MOPTI: We will break our drive to Mopti with stops in villages and to photograph the scenery of the Sahel. After lunch in San, we continue to Mopti, the Niger’s most vibrant and picturesque port and our base for touring the surrounding region. Kanaga Hotel.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Sunday, January 2: MOPTI: We will spend the day leisurely exploring Mopti. As we stroll its winding streets and alleys, we will be mesmerized by Mopti’s ceaseless harbor activity and wonderful skyline dominated by a fantastic mud mosque. Bobo fishermen hawk their dried fish and Niger boatmen unload the huge slabs of salt, continuing a journey that began with camel caravans crossing the desert to Timbuktu. The market is full of interesting crafts and foods of the region. After lunch at the harbor, we will have the afternoon free for our own exploration.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner


Monday, January 3: MOPTI: Djenné is said to be one of the most picturesque towns in West Africa, especially on Monday, market day. Our market day visit gives us an opportunity to view the fabulous mosque of Djenné, built in 1905 in classic Sahelian form, designed after the 11th-century mosque it replaced. Entrance into the mosque for non-Muslims is not permitted. We will also visit Jenné-Jeno (Old Djenné), an ancient settlement dating to approximately 250 BCE, and see some of Djenné’s famous mud cloth, traditional designs painted onto cloth using various types of soil for color. Dinner will be in the garden of a small restaurant, accompanied by the Kanaga Band.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Tuesday, January 4: DOGON: We will spend two days examining the art, architecture and culture of the Dogon people. Every aspect of the Dogon house, as well as the village itself, expresses a symbolic, religious or cultural meaning. At the tiny village of Songho, we climb an easy path through the village to reach a cliff completely covered with petroglyphs, some of which may be quite old or possibly repainted over the years. Many of the myths and traditions associated with this ritual site are still in practice today. The afternoon will be spent visiting some of the Dogon villages and ancient burial sites along the escarpment. The conical granaries, houses and intricately carved doors and window shutters in the villages below us provide a stunning view. We will overnight at the new Hotel Cheval Blanc at the entrance to the great Bandiagara Escarpment.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner


Wednesday, January 5: MOPTI: This morning we will continue our visits to the Dogon villages, returning to the Sangha Campment for lunch. Masks are an important part of Dogon culture and religious ceremonies, and before returning to Mopti, we will attend a performance of some of the Mask Dances. Kanaga Hotel.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Thursday, January 6: MOPTI: This full day will be spent sailing the Niger River in our brightly painted wooden pirogue. Along the way we might spot ibises, pelicans and herons or cattle herds of the seminomadic Peul people. We will stop to visit Bozo villages and to eat our picnic lunch. Our bus awaits us at Kona, home to the Fulani people, and we return to Mopti.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Friday, January 7: TIMBUKTU: Clinging to our seats, we cross the shifting sands of the Sahara to legendary Timbuktu, its name a byword for an inaccessible place. We will pass camps of nomadic Tuaregs and camel herds grazing on the sparse vegetation and travel along the Niger following the trans-Saharan trade routes used to move huge salt slabs between the Taoudenni salt mines to Mopti. When we finally reach Timbuktu, we will understand some of the tribulations experienced by European adventurers. Colombe Hotel.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Saturday, January 8: TIMBUKTU: Today we will explore this sandy town, once one of the great Islamic learning centers. Touring will include its three mosques, Djinguereber, the oldest and most famous, 15th-century Sankore Mosque, which doubled as a world-renowned university during Timbuktu’s golden era, and the Sidi Yahya mosque, first built in 1400. We will visit the new museum, which displays old etchings, photographs, ethnographic pieces and illuminated manuscripts, IHERI-AB Library, and tour the narrow streets, stopping to admire the old homes built in the unique local architectural style. There will be time to explore the local markets and wander on our own in the crafts markets. This evening we will drive into the desert for our farewell dinner under the stars accompanied by Takamba Songhai music and traditional Tuareg dances.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Sunday, Monday, January 9 & 10: BAMAKO: This morning we will fly back to Bamako. The remander of the day will be at leisure. This evening we will transfer to the airport for our Air France flight, arriving into New York via Paris midday Monday Salam Hotel.

Meals: Breakfast

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