An Archaeological Study Tour

Central Asia: Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan & Turkmenistan
September 8 – 28, 2009
Led by Professor Craig G. R. Benjamin

The magical names of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva conjure up wonderful images of the ancient caravan routes and the monumental architecture of the cities of Central Asia. The breakup of the Soviet Union has brought into new prominence the Central Asian peoples who occupy the territory through which the Silk Road ran and whose Khanates once maintained their palaces and mosques with the riches derived from their control of the flow of treasures through their territories. These newly independent states, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Khirgizstan and Kazakhistan, now look to new sources of wealth -- their gold is now “white” (cotton), “black” (oil) and “blue” (natural gas), as well as other resources -- as they seek to put themselves on a secure footing. Set amidst magnificent snow-capped mountains and vast deserts, the colorful markets, grazing camels and traditionally dressed people transport us in time. As we travel in the footsteps of Marco Polo, Alexander the Great and Kublai Khan, it is the juxtaposition of the ancient and the modern, our viewing of the magnificent relics of the past while observing the emergence of these new republics, that will make our journey through these fabled lands one of such interest and wonder.

Tuesday, Wednesday, September 8 & 9: ALMATY: Depart New York on Lufthansa Airlines via Frankfurt, arriving into Almaty in the evening. We will transfer to the five-star Hotel Regent Almaty.

Thursday, September 10: ALMATY: This morning we will meet for an opening lecture. Our touring begins at the Archaeological Museum, which houses Kazakhstan’s major treasures, including the armor of a Scythian warrior known as the Golden Warrior (replica on display). After lunch, touring continues at the Archaeological Institute at Kazakh State University and the Musical Instrument Museum, ending with a stroll through Panfilov Park and a visit to St. Nicholas Cathedral.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Friday, September 11: ALMATY: Today we will travel into the Anrakhai mountains to see some of the 4,000 petroglyphs depicting sun-headed gods, hunting scenes, animal sacrifices and other scenes at Tamgaly. Nearby we will see the Scythian burial mounds, from which the Golden Warrior was excavated.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Saturday, Sunday, September 12 & 13: TURKISTAN: A morning flight brings us to Shymkent. From here we drive north through the plains of the Syr Darya to Turkistan, stopping to visit the ancient city of Otrar, a fabled Silk Road city. Otrar was first founded in the 2nd century BC and reached its zenith as a center of trade in the period between the 10th and 12th centuries. It was the first city to fall to Genghis Khan in 1219. We will spend Sunday visiting the fabulous Islamic monuments of Turkistan, begining with the Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi, an important pilgrimage place and a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site, recognizing its significance as a template for many of the architectural masterpieces we shall see in Uzbekistan. Turkestan Hotel.Today we will travel into the Anrakhai mountains to see some of the 4,000 petroglyphs depicting sun-headed gods, hunting scenes, animal sacrifices and other scenes at Tamgaly. Nearby we will see the Scythian burial mounds, from which the Golden Warrior was excavated.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Monday, Tuesday, September 14 & 15: TASHKENT: This morning we drive to Tashkent and transfer to the centrally located Inter-Continental Hotel. Touring begins at the newly installed Archaeological Museum and continues at the Institute of Restoration. Our walking tour in the Old Town includes Barak Khana Madrassa, Tilya Shaikh Mosque and Kukeldash Madrassa. Time permitting, we will visit the Applied Arts Museum, which displays traditional household goods and crafts within a fascinating Uzbek-style residence built in 1907.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Wednesday, Thursday, September 16 & 17: SAMARKAND: A drive of several hours brings us to Samarkand in time for our first vist to the Registan, with its spectacular Shir-dar Madrassa. We heartily agree with Alexander the Great, who, after capturing Samarkand (Maracanda) in 329 BC, wrote, “Everything I have heard about the beauty of Maracanda is true, except it is more beautiful than I could imagine.” Thursday touring of the city’s glorious monuments continues at the Museum of Samarkand History and the nearby ancient site of Afrasiab. We complete the morning at the Ulugh-Beg Observatory, one of the earliest Islamic astronomical observatories, which appears to have been influenced by the earlier observatory built by Hulagu Khan in 1258 at Marageh. After lunch, our touring continues at the small History Museum, which houses a copy of the Afrasiab frieze. Our day ends at Gur Emir, Tamerlane’s tomb. Hotel Asia Samarkand.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Friday, September 18: SAMARKAND: We will complete our touring at Bibi-Khanum Mosque and the gorgeous lane of mosques and mausoleums known as Shah-i Zinda, leaving the remainder of the day at leisure to visit the market and reexamine this wonderful town on our own.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Saturday, September 19: BUKHARA: Driving south over the Takhtakaracha Pass and passing terraces that date to prehistoric times, we reach ancient Shahr-i Sabz. Here Tamerlane, who was born in a nearby village, built the famous Ak-Sarai (White Palace) to celebrate his victory against Khorezm. After examining the remains of these monuments, we will drive through the plains and fields of central Uzbekistan, arriving at the Hotel Asia Bukhara in time for dinner.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Sunday, September 20: BUKHARA: Our touring will begin with the museums and mosques in the Ark Citadel (ancient city fortress) and the Samanid Mausoleum, built in striking brick designs by the founder of the Samanid dynasty. Our visits continue at the Chashma-Ayub Mausoleum, Kalyan Minaret and Mosque, Bala-Hauz Mosque, renowned for its wooden pillars, the Lab-i Hauz Fountain, surrounded by madrassas, and the wonderful bazaar below the ancient city walls.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch

Monday, Tuesday, September 21 & 22: BUKHARA: A short drive brings us to the ancient city of Varaksha, famous for its wall paintings, which are now in the Hermitage. Returning to Bukhara, the full afternoon will be at leisure to stroll along the winding streets of this ancient city. A special program of traditional dance has been arranged for Monday evening. Tuesday morning we visit the ancient city of Paikent, which is still under excavation. Returning to Bukhara, we visit the palace of the last emir, Alim Khan, Chor-Bakr, a 16th-century necropolis, and the tomb of Bakhautdin Naqshband, the 14th-century founder of the Naqshbandis, a very ancient and important Sufi order. This is a highly revered place of pilgrimage, with two lovely restored mosques as well as a simple tomb and small museum.
Meals, Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Wednesday, September 23: KHIVA: An early start on our drive across the Kizyl-Kum Desert brings us to Khiva by midday. Touring begins at Old Khiva, the capital of the Khivan khanate from the 16th century until its incorporation into the Soviet Union. The palace, with its 18th-century harem and open courtyard, and the 9th-century Dzhuma Mosque, with its unusual wooden ceiling and 115 carved wooden columns, are among the many architectural treasures we will see. The view from the watchtower of the Kunya Ark provides a spectacular end to this exciting day. Hotel Asia Khiva.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Thursday, September 24: ASHKABAD: We will cross into Turkmenistan and visit Kunya Urgench (ancient Gurganj), capital of Khorezm and a major city on the northern caravan route until 1388, when Tamerlane’s fifth campaign against the city left it in rubble. After visiting the remaining monuments, including Turabeg Khanym Mausoleum, Najmuddin Kubra Mausoleum, the resting place of the holiest man in the history of Gurganj, and Kutluk Timur Minaret, which at 62 meters is the tallest in Central Asia, we fly to Ashkabad. A former garrison town, Ashkabad is situated in the center of the Akhal-Teke Oasis, surrounded on one side by the Kara-Kum Desert and on the other by the Kopet-Dag Mountains. Hotel Sheraton Grand Turkmen.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Friday, September 25: ASHKABAD: Touring today begins at Nisa, a capital of the Parthian empire (3rd century BC to 3rd century AD). We then visit 4th-millennium Anau, first excavated by the American archaeologist R. Pumpelly in 1904, returning in time for an independent visit to the Carpet Museum.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch

Saturday, September 26: MARI/ASHKABAD: This morning we will fly to Mary and drive out to the site of ancient Merv, an amazing historical treasure-house and capital of the Parthian province of Margiana. Among its ruins are the tomb of Sultan Sanjar and the Erk-Kala (fortress), perhaps rebuilt by Roman prisoners taken by the Parthians at the battle of Carrhae in 53 BC. After lunch, our touring continues at the Archaeological and Ethnographic Museum, beautifully installed in a caravanserai. It houses a particularly well designed ethnological display as well as a collection of archaeological artifacts from the ruins of ancient Merv. We return to Ashkabad at the end of the day.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Sunday, Monday, September 27 & 28: ASHKABAD: Every Sunday morning the villagers come from throughout the region to sell their animals, vegetables and other goods at the Sunday Market. We will find many handmade Bukhara-style rugs and colorful traditional clothing on sale at this lively market. After lunch we will visit the excellent Archaeological Museum. This evening we will meet for our farewell dinner and toast the completion of our great adventure. Monday we board our Lufthansa flights for home.
Meals: Breakfast & dinner


Please Note: This is an adventuresome and somewhat strenuous tour. It requires walking over rough terrain, step climbing and some long driving days. All participants are expected to be physically active and able to walk independently throughout our full touring days. Tourist facilities in Central Asia are not well developed. Hotels are simple, menus are limited and airline schedules are not fixed. Situations may arise that warrant a revision to the itinerary. Every effort will be made to maintain the integrity of the program. Only those willing to accept some discomforts should consider taking this tour.