An Archaeological Study Tour

Central Asia: Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan & Turkmenistan
September 14– 30, 2010
Led by Professor Philip L. Kohl

The magical names of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva conjure up wonderful images of the ancient caravan routes and the monumental architecture of the cities of Central Asia. The breakup of the Soviet Union has brought into new prominence the Central Asian peoples who occupy the territory through which the Silk Road ran and whose Khanates once maintained their palaces and mosques with the riches derived from their control of the flow of treasures through their territories. These newly independent states, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Khirgizstan and Kazakhistan, now look to new sources of wealth -- their gold is now “white” (cotton), “black” (oil) and “blue” (natural gas), as well as other resources -- as they seek to put themselves on a secure footing. Set amidst magnificent snow-capped mountains and vast deserts, the colorful markets, grazing camels and traditionally dressed people transport us in time. As we travel in the footsteps of Marco Polo, Alexander the Great and Kublai Khan, it is the juxtaposition of the ancient and the modern, our viewing of the magnificent relics of the past while observing the emergence of these new republics, that will make our journey through these fabled lands one of such interest and wonder.

Tuesday, Wednesday, September 14 & 15: TASHKENT: Depart New York on Turkish Air via Istanbul, arriving into Tashkent Thursday morning. We will transfer to the five-star Inter-Continental Hotel.

Thursday, September 16: TASHKENT: Touring begins at Tashkent’s fine Archaeological Museum and continues with a walking tour in the Old Town including Barak Khana Madrassa, Tilya Shaikh Mosque and Kukeldash Madrassa. This evening we will gather for our opening lecture before dinner.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Friday, September 17: SAMARKAND: After visiting the Institute of Restoration, which has an outstanding collection of archaeological material, we drive to Samarkand in time to visit the Registan, with its spectacular Shir-dar Madrassa. We heartily agree with Alexander the Great, who, after capturing Samarkand (Maracanda) in 329 BCE, wrote, “Everything I have heard about the beauty of Maracanda is true, except it is more beautiful than I could imagine.” Hotel Asia Samarkand.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Saturday, September 18: SAMARKAND: Touring of the city’s glorious monuments begins at the Museum of Samarkand History, which houses the material from the adjacent ancient site of Afrasiab, is the oldest part of Samarkand which from the 7th-6th century BCE was the centre of the Sogdian culture. We complete the morning at the Ulugh-Beg Observatory, one of the earliest Islamic astronomical observatories. After lunch, our touring continues at the small History Museum, which houses a copy of the Afrasiab frieze. Our day ends at Gur Emir, Tamerlane’s tomb.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Sunday, September 19: SAMARKAND: We will complete our touring at Bibi-Khanum Mosque and the gorgeous lane of mosques and mausoleums known as Shah-i Zinda, leaving the remainder of the day at leisure to visit the market and revisit this wonderful town on our own.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Monday, September 20: BUKHARA: Driving south over the Takhtakaracha Pass and passing land that was terraced in prehistoric times, we reach ancient Shahr-i Sabz. Here Tamerlane, who was born in a nearby village, built the famous Ak-Sarai (White Palace) to celebrate his victory against Khorezm. After examining the remains of these monuments, we will drive through the plains and fields of central Uzbekistan, arriving into Bukhara and the Hotel Asia Bukhara in time for dinner.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Tuesday, September 21: BUKHARA: Our touring will begin with the museums and mosques in the Ark Citadel (ancient city fortress) and the Samanid Mausoleum, built in striking brick designs by the founder of the Samanid dynasty. Our visits continue at the Chashma-Ayub Mausoleum, Kalyan Minaret and Mosque, Bala-Hauz Mosque, renowned for its wooden pillars, the Lab-i Hauz Fountain, surrounded by madrassas, and the wonderful bazaar below the ancient city walls.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch

Wednesday, Thursday, September 22 & 23: BUKHARA: A short drive brings us to the ancient city of Varaksha, famous for its wall paintings, which are now in the Hermitage. Returning to Bukhara, the full afternoon will be at leisure to stroll along the winding streets of this ancient city. A special program of traditional dance has been arranged for Wednesday evening. Thursday morning we visit the ancient city of Paikent, which is still under excavation. Returning to Bukhara, we visit the palace of the last emir, Alim Khan, Chor-Bakr, a 16th-century necropolis, and the tomb of Bakhautdin Naqshband, the 14th-century founder of the Naqshbandis, a very ancient and important Sufi order. This is a highly revered place of pilgrimage, with two lovely restored mosques as well as a simple tomb and small museum.
Meals, Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Friday, September 24: KHIVA: An early start on our drive across the Kizyl-Kum Desert brings us to Khiva by midday. Touring begins at Old Khiva, the capital of the Khivan khanate from the 16th century until its incorporation into the Soviet Union. The palace, with its 18th-century harem and open courtyard, and the 9th-century Dzhuma Mosque, with its unusual wooden ceiling and 115 carved wooden columns, are among the many architectural treasures we will see. The view from the watchtower of the Kunya Ark provides a spectacular end to this exciting day. Hotel Asia Khiva.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Saturday, September 25: ASHKABAD: We will cross into Turkmenistan and visit Kunya Urgench (ancient Gurganj), capital of Khorezm and a major city on the northern caravan route until 1388, when Tamerlane’s fifth campaign against the city left it in rubble. After visiting the remaining monuments, including Turabeg Khanym Mausoleum, Najmuddin Kubra Mausoleum, the resting place of the holiest man in the history of Gurganj, and Kutluk Timur Minaret, which at 62 meters is the tallest in Central Asia, we fly to Ashkabad. A former garrison town, Ashkabad is situated in the center of the Akhal-Teke Oasis, surrounded on one side by the Kara-Kum Desert and on the other by the Kopet-Dag Mountains. Hotel Grand Turkmen.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Sunday, September 26: ASHKABAD: Every Sunday morning the villagers come from throughout the region to sell their animals, vegetables and other goods at the Sunday Market, the most colorful market in the region. We will find many handmade Bukhara-style rugs and colorful traditional clothing on sale, as well as a lively camel market which is not to be missed. We will spend the afternoon at the excellent National Archaeological Museum, which houses among its treasures a fabulous collection of rhytons (ancient drinking vessels).
Meals: Breakfast & lunch

Monday, September 27: MARI: This morning we will fly to Mari and drive to Gonur-Depe. The legendary Russian archaeologist, Viktor Sarianidi, has been working at this amazing site since 1972. He has confirmed that Gonur Depe, dated at 3000 BCE is one of the oldest, if not the oldest, Zoroastrian (fire-worshipping) civilizations. We will have an opportunity to talk with Dr. Sarianidi if he is able to excavate this year. After an extensive visit to the site we will return to Mary and the simple Hotel Margush.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Tuesday, September 28: ASHKABAD: This morning we will visit the site of ancient Merv, an amazing historical treasure-house and capital of the Parthian province of Margiana. Among its ruins are the tomb of Sultan Sanjar and the Erk-Kala (fortress), perhaps rebuilt by Roman prisoners taken by the Parthians at the battle of Carrhae in 53 BCE. We return to Mari for lunch and to visit the Archaeological and Ethnographic Museum, beautifully installed in a caravanserai. It houses a particularly well designed ethnological display as well as a collection of archaeological artifacts from the ruins of ancient Merv. We then fly back to Ashkabad. Hotel Grand Turkmen.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Wednesday, September 29: ASHKABAD: Our last morning of touring today begins at Nisa, a capital of the Parthian empire (3rd century BCE to 3rd century CE). We then visit 4th-millennium Anau, first excavated by the American archaeologist R. Pumpelly in 1904, The afternoon will be at leisure. This evening we will meet for our farewell dinner and toast the completion of our great adventure.
Meals: Breakfast & dinner

Wednesday, September 30: This morning we depart on Turkish Air via Istanbul to New York.



Please Note: This is an adventuresome and somewhat strenuous tour. It requires walking over rough terrain, step climbing and some long driving days. All participants are expected to be physically active and able to walk independently throughout our full touring days. Tourist facilities in Central Asia are not well developed. Hotels are simple, menus are limited and airline schedules are not fixed. Situations may arise that warrant a revision to the itinerary. Every effort will be made to maintain the integrity of the program. Only those willing to accept some discomforts should consider taking this tour.