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An Archaeological Study Tour

Khmer Kingdoms
Burma (Myanmar), Thailand, Laos & Cambodia
Including 4 days at Angkor Wat
January 18 - February 10, 2011
Led By Professor Richard Cooler




This tour will focus on the historical, ethnographic and religious aspects of these exotic lands. We begin in Luang Praban, Laos, one of the loviest cities in the region. Dominated by the Mekong River, Laos has assimilated ideas and culture from both China and the Indian subcontinent. We will find examples of its distinctive character in Vientiane and at the magnificent 7th-century Khmer ruins of Wat Phou.


Myanmar (Burma) was closed to foreigners from 1961 until recent years; its glittering pagodas, golden temples and saffron-robed monks create a wondrous atmosphere of vibrant color. We will have the unique opportunity to see this picturesque and gentle land on the threshold of transformation. Our visits will include ancient royal capitals, deserted royal cities, as well as some of the thousands of pagodas and temples.


Thailand offers an exotic blend of ancient history and natural beauty. For nearly two thousand years its countryside has seen rulers and cities rise and fall, and for the last thousand it has been the heartland of Theravada Buddhism. Much of this legacy remains in the art and architecture of its temples and towns and the still-honored customs of earlier court-centered civilizations. Our tour will explore this past by visiting the major Khmer ruins in remote Isan (northeastern Thailand).


Cambodia is a country of contrasts: active Buddhist monasteries, teeming markets, spectacular palaces and, of course, the incomparable complex of Angkor Wat. Our time will be divided between bustling Phnom Penh and serene Siem Reap, where our five and a half days will provide ample time to explore the Angkor ruins from every perspective. As we travel through these wonderful places, we will have the opportunity to experience traditional music and dance, sample the local foods, examine crafts and explore lively markets.

Tuesday, Wednesday, January 18 & 19
:BANGKOK: Departure from Los Angeles via United Airlines. We arrive into Bangkok late Wednesday night and transfer to the Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel.

Thursday, Friday, Saturday, January 20, 21 & 22: LUANG PRABANG: We return to the airport for a morning flight to Luang Prabang, considered by Southeast Asia aficionados to be the loveliest city in the region. Thursday evening we will meet for our opening lecture and dinner. Our leisurely days in Luang Prabang will include visits to the former palace of the Lao kings, transformed into an excellent museum, the lovely Wat May and some of the wonderful royal wats on Mount Phousi. Saturday we travel by boat on the Mekong to visit the Pak Ou Caves, where we will see a vast array of Buddhist images in many ancient styles. There will be time to stroll in the markets and relax at the hotel. Maison Suvannaphoum.

Meals; Breakfast & lunch daily & 2 dinners

Sunday, January 23: VIENTIANE: A morning flight brings us to Vientiane. Our exploration of colonial Vientiane will include visits to Wat Sisaket and Wat That Luang. Although Wat Sisaket was built in the Bangkok style in 1818, it is now the oldest temple still standing in Vientiane and has several unique architectural features, including small niches containing over 2,000 silver and ceramic Buddhas. Some of these Buddhas are from the 15th and 16th centuries. Lao Plaza Hotel.

Meals: Breakfast & lunch

Monday, January 24: PAKSE: This morning we fly to Pakse. Our touring here will be to the remote and unspoiled Angkor-period site of Wat Phou on the lower slopes of Phu Pasak. We will have ample time to study this lovely spot, whose uppermost pavilions and sanctuaries are reached by a stairway overgrown with fragrant jasmine trees. Champasak Grand Hotel.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Tuesday, January 25: KORAT: This morning we cross the border into Thailand at Mek Pass and continue to the rarely visited Wat Prasat Phnom Rung. Built over a period of 200 years, it stands on top of an inactive volcano overlooking the Thai-Cambodia border. This sanctuary, with its monumental stairway, is thought to have been a stopping-off point on the road from Angkor to Phimai. Royal Princess Dusit Hotel.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner


Wednesday, January 26: KORAT
: Touring today will be to the ancient Khmer-style ruins of Phimai. Apart from Angkor Wat in Cambodia, the Khmer sites of this region are the best representatives of this distinctive period. Built between AD 986 and 1001, Phimai is one of the oldest and best-preserved temples of this area. After visiting the wonderful museum and exploring the charming little shops selling the necessities for Buddhist worship, we return to Korat.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Thursday, January 27: BANGKOK: Today we drive to Bangkok, stopping to tour Ayutthaya, capital of Siam from 1350 to 1767. As time permits, we will visit several beautifully restored temples at this UNESCO World Heritage Site, including the fabulous collection of gold jewelry and religious objects in the National Museum. Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel.

Meals; Breakfast & lunch


Friday, January 28: YANGON: A short flight to Burma and its capital, Yangon, formerly known as Rangoon.We begin our touring of Yangon with a drive through the heart of the city to view the colonial buildings, with a stop at the golden chedi at Sule Pagoda. After lunch, we will visit Burma’s most important religious building, the Shwedagon Pagoda. Our overnight is at the deluxe Savoy Hotel.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner


Saturday, January 29: MANDALAY:
A morning flight brings us to Burma’s cultural and religious center, Mandalay, capital of the last Burmese monarchs. Touring begins at the Mahamuni Pagoda, the holiest of Burmese shrines, where the devout continue to apply layers of gold leaf to its Buddha. We then visit the Kyauktawgyi Pagoda, with its images of Buddha’s 80 disciples standing guard, the beautifully adorned wooden Shwesandaw monastery, the only remaining vestige of the royal palace, and Kuthodaw Pagoda, which houses an enormous carved book containing all of the Buddhist canons, each page chiseled into a marble slab and housed in its own shrine. Sedona Hotel.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner


Sunday, January 30: MANDALAY: Driving south of Mandalay, we visit the deserted royal cities of Amarapura and Ava. We will visit a functioning monastery and witness the silent, ritual meal for over 500 monks. After a stroll on U Bein’s mile-long teak bridge, we will stop at a shop where silk fabrics are still woven by a rare technique once used for the royal family. After lunch we ferry across the Myit Nge River to Ava, the 14th-century Burmese capital. Traveling by pony cart across verdant rice fields, we visit a traditional wooden monastery and stop at Ava village to watch the lacquering of monk’s begging bowls.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Monday, January 31: MANDALAY: This morning we board a boat for a delightful excursion up the Irrawaddy to Mingun to see the partially constructed pagoda begun in 1790 and known as “King Bodawpaya’s Folly” for his attempt to construct the world’s largest stupa. Among the monuments to be seen here is the famous Mingun Bell, at 90 tons, one of the world’s largest. In the afternoon we will visit some of Mandalay’s royal craft guilds, including stone carvers, tapestry (Kalaga) weavers, the beaters of gold leaf and the girls who produce a unique “paper that makes gold grow.”

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Tuesday, February 1: BAGAN: A short flight brings us to Bagan (Pagan), the first capital of united Burma, founded in AD 900 and containing over 5,000 pagodas and temples. Touring begins at the Shwezigon Pagoda, which along with Ananda are the only temples in Bagan that have been in continuous use since the 11th century and where the first shrine dedicated to the 37 indigenous spirits (nats) is located. We will also visit Gubyaukgi Wetkyiin, which has the most complete frescoes in Bagan. Touring continues with selected temples that are representative of the major changes in religious architecture from the early Mon to the later, fully developed Burmese style. We visit four very different 11th-century Mon-style temples: Nanpaya, Manuha, Nagayon and Abeyadana, with its beautifully restored Mahayana wall paintings. Thante Hotel.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner


Wednesday, February 2: BAGAN: After an early morning carriage ride to one of the pagodas to see the sunrise, we depart for charming Myinkaba, a village that predates the founding of Bagan. Here we visit the first of two transitional temples, the Gubyaukgyi Myinkaba Temple, built in traditional Indian style, and then the Ananda Temple, which is famous for its 3,000 images, including four colossal images of the Buddha standing. Lastly, we stop to see lacquerware being made and engraved by four different processes. There will be an opportunity for an optional early morning hot air balloon flight over Bagan.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner


Thursday, February 3: BAGAN: After visiting the Archaeological Museum, we drive into the heart of the dry zone to visit Mt. Popa, a dormant volcano that rises to a height of 1,520 meters from lush groves of toddy palms and flowers in the valley. Mt. Popa is the Mount Olympus of Burma, where abides the entire pantheon of 37 local spirits and is therefore a pilgrimage site. We will visit the shrines housing these spirits at the bottom of the mountain and watch the throngs of pilgrims as they climb to the shrines that cling to the mountain rocks. This evening we will attend a typical puppet show.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Friday, February 4: PHNOM PENH:: Our flight back to Yangon will connect through Bangkok to the Cambodian capital of Phnom Penh. We will transfer to the Cambodiana Hotel, which looks out on the junction of four great rivers: the Tonle Sap, the Upper Mekong, the Lower Mekong and the Bassac.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Saturday, February 5: PHNOM PENH: A full morning will be spent at the National Museum, where much of the sculpture and small objects from the temples at Angkor are displayed. In the afternoon we will visit the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda and explore the Russian market.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner


Sunday, February 6: SIEM REAP: We fly to Siem Reap and the centrally located Sofitel Royal Hotel, our luxurious home for the next four days. As we will have ample time to explore the amazing Angkor complex, we have the luxury of scheduling our temple visits to retrace the historical development of the architecture at this extraordinary site, with time to return on our own. The first two days will be spent touring the older temples of the Roluos group and the magnificent sanctuaries and temples of the Angkor Wat complex. We will visit the city of Angkor Thom, with the many-towered Bayon Temple at its center, the adjacent city square and elephant terrace, the cremation platform and royal palace compound containing the royal temple mountain and the royal bathing ponds. We will also visit Prasat Kravan, with unique brick sculptures, and Eastern Mebon, guarded by elephants. Tonight's dinner will be accompanied by a performance of Cambodian dance.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner

Monday, Tuesday, February 7 & 8: SIEM REAP: We will visit three temples built by Jayavarman VII, Preah Khan, Neak Pean and Ta Som, which are now under the auspices of the World Monument Fund. We will tour Preah Khan and discuss the professional restoration of these monuments. Neak Pean is a totally novel construction of a religious “spa,” where the devout went to bathe. Ta Som is an intimate structure, until recently completely engulfed by the forest but still having its monumental four-faced towers encased in living foliage. We will spend the afternoon in the countryside visiting the lovely little temple of Banteay Srei, remarkably preserved and so beautifully decorated that its surface resembles carved sandalwood or ivory. Our gala farewell dinner at will be at our hotel on Tuesday night.

Meals: Breakfast, lunch & 1 dinner


Wednesday, February 9: SIEM REAP: We will conclude our temple program this morning with a walk through the temple of Ta Phrom, a magically overgrown temple inhabited only by green parrots, where delicately carved faces are cradled in the tendrils of strangler fig trees. This afternoon we will visit the new Siem Reap Museum and the school and workshops of the Artisan d'Angkor, a state school where traditional Cambodian crafts are taught such as stone and wood carving, ikat weaving, handmade paper accessories, jewelry and puppet making. This evening we fly back to Bangkok and transfer to the Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel.

Meals: Breakfast & lunch


Thurs day, February 10:
Our United Airlines flight departs for Los Angeles this morning.

Meals: Breakfast



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