An Archaeological Study Tour
Malta, Sardinia & Corsica
May 2 – 19, 2012
18 Days
Led by Professor Robert R. Stieglitz
Rutgers University
The Mediterranean islands are like a protest of the habitable earth against the emptiness of the seas. Each has its own characteristic geological environment and has developed its own cultural and political history. They were a refuge for those peoples whose cultures and lifestyles were submerged on the mainlands but were able to survive on the islands, and are therefore treasure-houses of the oldest, protohistoric Mediterranean civilizations: the megalithic temples of Malta, the nuraghes of Sardinia and the open-air sanctuaries and mysterious cult sites of Corsica. In the historical period, Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Crusader knights, Turks, Spaniards, Italians, French and British fought over these islands, ruled over them and left their indelible marks in the monuments and cultures of the people still living there today. Spectacular scenery, sunny skies and warm weather will enhance the exploration of these ancient civilizations.
Wednesday, Thursday, May 2 & 3: VALLETTA: Depart from our home cities Wednesday evening and arrive into Malta midday Thursday. We will transfer to the Phoenicia Hotel just outside the walls of Valletta. This evening we will meet with Professor Stieglitz for an orientation lecture and dinner at our hotel.
Meals: Dinner
Friday, May 4: VALLETTA: This full day will begin at the Archaeological Museum, which displays a wonderful collection of prehistoric material from the island. We will then take a short walking tour in the old city, including a visit to St. John’s Cathedral, which houses Caravaggio’s The Beheading amongst its treasures. This afternoon touring continues to Hal Saflieni, a vast rock-cut catacomb for multiple burials, and Skorba, one of the earliest and continuously inhabited sites on the island. We will visit the remains of buildings that may have been shrines or prototemples more than 5,000 years ago. The day concludes with a walking tour in the old city of Mdina, twin city to Rabat. In Roman times these cities were walled as one, but now their historic streets and tiny plazas are purely Maltese in character.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch
Saturday, May 5: VALLETTA: After a morning at leisure, our touring will continue at Hagar Qim and Mnajdra, an extraordinary complex occupying a marvelous site above the sea. These temples are unusual for their beautifully dressed stones and variety of altars. The temples of Tarxien, our last site of the day, represent the finest architectural achievement of their period. This evening we will walk into the old city for dinner at one of the city’s fine restaurants.
Meals: Breakfast & dinner
Sunday, May 6: VALLETTA: We will travel to the far end of the island and take a ferry to the island of Gozo. Here we will visit the prehistoric temples of Ggantija, which date from 3600 BCE and are archetypal of this phase. These well-preserved temples have massive walls, some of which still rise to a height of 17 feet. They are as awesome today as they must have been in antiquity. We then visit the Archaeological Museum and the Citadel in the old Norman town of Victoria before returning to Valletta.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch
Monday, Tuesday, May 7 & 8: CAGLIARI: This morning we will depart Malta arriving into Cagliari, Sardinia, in the late afternoon. Touring Tuesday is within Cagliari and includes the Archaeological Museum, the 13th century Romanesque-Gothic Cathedral, the Roman Amphitheater and ends with a walking tour in the Old Town. The afternoon will be at leisure. Hotel Regina Margherita.
Meals: Breakfast daily & 1 dinner
Wednesday, May 9: CAGLIARI: Today’s itinerary will take us to several Phoenician sites, beginning with a scenic drive along the coast to the Phoenician town of Nora to visit its Punic temple, houses, Roman theater and baths. We then continue to the volcanic island of Sant’Antioco to see a fascinating tophet and lastly, at Monte Sirai, we will tour a Phoenician mining town.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch
Thursday, May 10: ORISTANO: During our stay on Sardinia we will have the opportunity to examine several of the 7,000 nuraghes built throughout the island. These mysterious, awe-inspiring, dry-stone monumental buildings have been difficult to date. It is believed that during the second millennium BCE, the Sardinian people developed into a more complex society and began constructing these buildings as temples, fortresses and dwellings. Driving north, we stop at the megalithic cult center and cemetery of Pranu Muteddu, with its menhirs and tumuli, and continue to the largest nuraghic village in Sardinia, Su Nuraxi, which has 396 houses and a massive central structure. Our touring ends at the ancient Phoenician and Roman town of Tharros. We overnight in medieval Oristano at the Hotel Mistral II.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Friday, May 11: ALGHERO: Our touring begins at the nuraghic complex of Losa and the sanctuary of Santa Cristina and continues to the complex of Sant’Antine and the rock-cut necropolis of Sant’Andrea Priu. We continue to Alghero and spend two nights in this lovely port city, which still retains its Catalan atmosphere. Hotel Catalunya.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch
Saturday, May 12: ALGHERO: This morning we will visit the fascinating Neolithic site of Monte d’Accoddi, a huge megalithic altar set on a base of over ten meters. We will spend the rest of the morning in Sassari, a delightful medieval town nestling around its great cathedral. Our visit is to the fine prehistoric Punic and Roman collections at the National Museum. We then return to Alghero for an afternoon at leisure to explore the town or take a boat trip to nearby grottoes.
Meals: Breakfast
Sunday, May 13: BONIFACIO: We begin a spectacular drive through mountain villages and along winding coastal roads, visiting the prehistoric cemetery of Li Muri and the giants’ tombs Li Loghi and Coddu Vecchiu. We then take a short ferry trip from Sardinia to Bonifacio, whose fortified town perched atop the chalk cliffs appears on the Corsican horizon as we approach. Hotel Solemare.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch
Monday, May 14: BONIFACIO: This morning we will tour Bonifacio’s old buildings remaining from the Pisan and Genoese periods, as well as its fortifications, built in 830 CE by a Tuscan margrave in order to repel a Saracen attack. The afternoon will be at leisure to explore the town.
Meals: Breakfast
Tuesday, May 15: PROPRIANO: Driving into the Tizzano Valley, we visit the megalithic sites of Fontanaccia, Stantari and Renaghju, the best-preserved dolmen in Corsica. We continue to the Alta Rocca region, where, following densely forested paths, we visit the Bronze Age fortified Torréen complex of Castellu de Cucuruzzu and the remains of Capula. Our last stop today is the newly installed Sartene Archaeological Museum, which displays finds from the region. Hotel Marinca.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Wednesday, May 16: AJACCIO: Touring today begins with Filitosa, Corsica’s most important prehistoric site. Here menhirs, carved 5,000 years ago, represent the pinnacle of achievement for the megalithic artists. We then continue to Ajaccio, Napoleon’s birthplace, where a short walking tour will bring us to his house. Palazzu U Domu Hotel.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch
Thursday, May 17: ERBALUNGA: Today will be filled with ever-changing vistas, beginning with the coastal scenery and the Bay of Sagone, continuing as we begin our ascent into the mountains, winding our way to Cargese. Along the way we will stop to visit a fine Greek church decorated with 17th-century icons, before continuing to Porto Bay via a spectacular “calanche” of red granite. Turning inland we follow the wild Spelunca Canyons through the Aitone Forest to Evisa, at 2,500 feet. We then descend to the tiny fishing village of Erbalunga on Cap Corse. Our hotel, Castel Brando, is a charming family-run hotel centrally located near shops, restaurants and the seacoast.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch
Friday, Saturday, May 18 & 19: ERBALUNGA: Our touring this morning is to Aleria, capital of Corsica during the Roman period, and its museum. We return to Erbalunga with time to explore the picturesque village or relax at our hotel before our farewell dinner at a restaurant in the old harbor.Saturday we fly to Nice to connect to our flights home.
Meals: Breakfast & farewell dinner
Please Note: This tour requires walking through large archaeological sites on uneven terrain. For the most satisfying experience, and in fairness to your fellow travelers, all participants are expected to be physically active and able to walk independently throughout our full touring days. |
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