An
Archaeological Study Tour
Malta,
Sardinia & Corsica
May
6 23, 2009
Led
by Professor
Robert R. Stieglitz
The
Mediterranean islands are like a protest of the habitable
earth against the emptiness of the seas. Each has its own
characteristic geological environment and has developed
its own cultural and political history. They were a refuge
for those peoples whose cultures and lifestyles were submerged
on the mainlands but were able to survive on the islands,
and are therefore treasure-houses of the oldest, protohistoric
Mediterranean civilizations: the megalithic temples of Malta,
the nuraghes of Sardinia and the open-air sanctuaries and
mysterious cult sites of Corsica. In the historical period,
Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Crusader knights,
Turks, Spaniards, Italians, French and British fought over
these islands, ruled over them and left their indelible
marks in the monuments and cultures of the people still
living there today. Spectacular scenery, sunny skies and
warm weather will enhance the exploration of these ancient
civilizations.
Wednesday, Thursday, May 6 & 7: VALLETTA: Depart
New York and arrive into Malta midday Thursday. We will
transfer to the newly renovated Phoenicia Hotel, just outside
the gates of Valletta, and meet with Professor Stieglitz
for an orientation lecture and dinner at our hotel.
Meals: Dinner
Friday, Saturday, Sunday, May 8, 9 & 10: VALLETTA:
During
the next three days touring will include the Archaeological
Museum, renowned for its prehistoric material, a walking
tour in the old city, Hal Saflieni, a vast rock-cut catacomb
for multiple burials, and Skorba, one of the earliest and
continuously inhabited sites on the island. We will also
visit the old city of Mdina, twin city to Rabat, Hagar Qim
and Mnajdra, an extraordinary complex that is unusual for
its beautifully dressed stones and variety of altars, and
the temples of Tarxien, which represent the finest architectural
achievement of their period. On Sunday we will travel to
the far end of the island and take a ferry to the island
of Gozo to visit the Archaeological Museum and the Citadel
in the old Norman town of Victoria, as well as the prehistoric
temples of Ggantija, which date from 3600 BC. These well-preserved
temples have massive walls, some of which still rise to
a height of 17 feet.
Meals: Breakfast daily, 2 lunches & 1 dinner
Monday, Tuesday, May 11 & 12: CAGLIARI:
This morning we will depart Malta arriving into Cagliari,
Sardinia, in the late afternoon. Touring Tuesday is within
Cagliari and includes the Archaeological Museum, the 13th
century Romanesque-Gothic Cathedral, the Roman Amphitheater,
the 5th century St. Saturninus Basilica, believed to be
one of the oldest Christian churches in the Mediterranean,
and ends with a walking tour in the Old Town. The afternoon
will be at leisure. Hotel Regina Margherita.
Meals: Breakfast daily & 1 dinner
Wednesday, May 13: CAGLIARI: Today’s
itinerary will take us to several Phoenician sites, beginning
with a scenic drive along the coast to the Phoenician town
of Nora to visit its Punic temple, houses, Roman theater
and baths. We then continue to the volcanic island of St.
Antioco to see a fascinating Tophet and lastly, at Monte
Sirai, we will tour a Phoenician mining town.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch
Thursday, May 14: ORISTANO: During
our stay on Sardinia we will have the opportunity to examine
several of the 7,000 nuraghes built throughout the island.
These mysterious, awe-inspiring, dry-stone monumental buildings
have been difficult to date. It is believed that during
the second millennium BC the Sardinian people developed
into a more complex society and began constructing these
buildings as temples, fortresses and dwellings. Driving
north, we stop at the megalithic cult center and cemetery
of Pranu Muteddu, the spring sanctuary of Santa Vittoria,
and the largest nuraghic village in Sardinia, Su Nuraxi,
which has 396 houses and a massive central structure. Our
touring ends at the ancient Phoenician and Roman town of
Tharros. We overnight in medieval Oristano at Hotel Mistral
II.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Friday, Saturday, May 15 & 16: ALGHERO: Our
touring begins at the nuraghic complex of Losa and the sanctuary
of Santa Cristina and continues to the complex of Sant’Antine
and the rock-cut necropolis of Sant’Andrea Priu. After
lunch in the old city of Sassari, a delightful medieval
town nestling around its great cathedral, we visit Neolithic
Monte d’Accoddi, a great megalithic altar set on a
base of over ten meters. Sunday morning we will visit the
rock-cut cemetery of Anghelu Ruju and the nuraghe and village
of Palmavera. The remainder of the day will be at leisure
to stroll in town or take a boat trip to nearby grottoes.
We will spend two nights at Hotel Catalunya in the lovely
port city of Alghero.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch daily
Sunday, Monday, May 17 & 18: BONIFACIO: After
visiting the Punic and Roman collection at Sassari’s
National Museum, a spectacular drive takes us through mountain
villages and along winding coastal roads to the prehistoric
cemetery of Li Muri and the giants’ tombs, Li Loighi
and Coddu Vecchiu. A short ferry trip takes us from Sardinia
to the fortified town of Bonifacio, perched atop the chalk
cliffs of Corsica. On Monday we drive north via Porto-Vecchio
to visit the Bronze Age site of Castello d’Arragiu,
returning to Bonifacio for lunch and a tour of its old buildings
remaining from the Pisan and Genoese periods, as well as
its fortifications, built in 830 AD. Solemare Hotel.
Meals: Breakfast, 1 lunch & 1 dinner
Tuesday, May 19: PROPRIANO: Driving
into the Tizzano Valley, we visit the Palaggiu alignments
of menhirs, the megalithic sites of Fontanaccua, Stantari
and Renaghju, the best-preserved dolmen in Corsica. We continue
to the Alta Rocca region, where, following densely forested
paths, we visit the Bronze Age fortified Torreen complex
of Castellu de Cucuruzzu and the remains of Capula. The
day’s final stop is the small museum at Levie. Hotel
San Damianu.
Meals: Breakfast, lunch & dinner
Wednesday, May 20: AJACCIO: Touring
today begins with Renaghju and the best-preserved dolmen
in Corsica, complete with funeral chamber. We then continue
to Filitosa, Corsica’s most important prehistoric
site. Here menhirs, carved five thousand years ago, represent
the pinnacle of achievement for the megalithic artists.
We will spend the night in Ajaccio, Napoleon’s birthplace,
where a short walking tour will bring us to his house. Hotel
Palazzu Domu.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch
Thursday,
May 21: ERBALUNGA: Today
will be filled with ever-changing vistas, beginning with
the coastal scenery and the Bay of Sagone, continuing as
we begin our ascent into the mountains, winding our way
to Cargese. Along the way we will stop to visit a fine Greek
church decorated with 17th-century icons, before continuing
to Porto Bay via a spectacular “calanche” of
red granite. Turning inland we follow the wild Spelunca
Canyons through the Aitone Forest to Evisa at 2,500 feet.
Then, after a stroll in the intriguing mountain town, Corte,
Corsica’s national capital, we descend to the tiny
fishing village of Erbalunga on Cap Corse. Our hotel, Castel
Brando, is a charming family-run hotel centrally located
near shops, restaurants and the sea coast.
Meals: Breakfast & lunch
Friday, Saturday, May 22 & 23: ERBALUNGA: Our
touring begins in Aleria, capital of Corsica during the
Roman period, and continues to Mariana to see its Roman
remains and the church of San Parteo de Mariana and La Canonica.
On our return to Erbalunga, we stop at the church of San
Michele de Murato, one of the most remarkable Romanesque
churches on Corsica. There will be time to explore our picturesque
village or relax at our hotel before our farewell dinner
at a restaurant in the old harbor.Saturday our flight to
New York is via Nice and Munich.
Meals: Breakfast & farewell dinner
This
tour requires walking through large archaeological sites
on uneven terrain. For the most satisfying experience, and
in fairness to your fellow travelers, all participants are
expected to be physically active and able to walk independently
throughout our full touring days.
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